Chuseok in Gyeongju – Part 2

Trying to find our way back downtown proved to be a struggle. Once again, we had no map, no WiFi, no point of reference. Nothing. Pretty much completely reliant on guess work and sheer luck. I could feel blisters starting to form on my feet. I was terribly hungry and thirsty. But we walked. And walked.

Finally, I recognized some of the large mound tombs. We were somewhere in the general vicinity. After making our way closer to the shops and restaurants, we saw a naengmyeon (cold noodle) shop and absolutely had to stop and eat. I got naengmyeon with chicken breast, Steve got spicy noodles, and we shared an order of mandu (dumplings).

My chicken naengmyeon.

My chicken naengmyeon.

Following sustenance and water, we were feeling much more like humans again. The next order of business was trying to find a place to sleep for the night. We checked two guesthouses that were seemingly closed. I was getting frustrated. After the third closed guesthouse, a Korean woman saw us struggling and tried to help. (Side note: she was cycling with a partner and visibly bleeding from the shoulder, and still insisted on helping.) She spoke very little English, but took out her phone and pulled up a map. I took a picture of the map with my phone, and we thanked her profusely. Her kindness was so unexpected, but greatly appreciated.

We walked around for another 20 minutes and still could not find a place to stay. All of a sudden, we saw a Western couple turning the corner, looked at each other, and immediately ran across the street to talk to them. They were from Norway and gave us detailed directions back to the downtown area and bus terminal, where there are many motels.

We thanked them and successfully made our way back downtown. We settled on a place called Motel Icarus, solely because the name was Greek. It cost 50,000 won ($41.00) for one night and it was actually really nice. Not like fleabag motels you find back home. I regret not taking any pictures because the walls were literally covered in images of Santorini. Bizarre. But cool.

We left our things in the room and headed back out to Anapji Pond, which is located in Gyeongju National Park. It was part of an ancient Silla palace complex. When we arrived, there were masses of people making their way around the pond. It was a surreal and beautiful experience.


Anapji Pond.

After leaving Anapji Pond, we walked down the main road and passed many different street food vendors. Everything looked good, but it was a perfect night for ice cream. So that’s what we got. We walked around for a bit, and Steve spotted Cheomseongdae, which is the ancient astronomy observatory. I had been wanting to see it, so we made a little detour. It was all lit up at night, which made it extremely striking.

Cheomseongdae Observatory.

Cheomseongdae Observatory.

Then, we walked some more and came across a little strip with shops and eateries. Steve got a tornado potato at one stand and we noticed the vendor was making something. He told us it was an ancient royal candy. It is called kkultarae and it is made from honey, maltose, and a nut filling. He was so friendly, I just had to buy a box from him. I haven’t tried it yet, but I am really looking forward to!

Man making kkultarae candy.

Man making kkultarae candy.

We were so exhausted after this, so we went back to the motel and called it a night.


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